Showing posts with label 19th century. Show all posts

Ginger Tablet (1845) ★★★★



Ages ago, in my 4th out of 5 years in university, I submitted an essay to be published in an online undergraduate journal. Unfortunately my essay wasn't chosen, but they told me I was the first alternate choice and they encouraged me to apply again the next year. So my 5th year rolled around and I received an email from the editor, asking if I would apply this time as well. I brushed up my work a bit and resubmitted. And they accepted it! I had to go through gruelling edits, which took months to complete - all during a move to Japan!

My essay was finally published this November. If you're interested in Scottish-Canadian foodways, please have a look! The official title is Cookbooks as Sources of Scottish-Canadian Identity, 1845 – 1934. Its all about the first two Scottish cookbooks published in Canada and how they interact with and reflect Scottish and Canadian identities at the time. Its my first published work, and to be honest, I can see that it needs still more refining. But for an undergraduate work, I'm pretty pleased.

So without further ado, here is a recipe from one of the cookbooks I analyzed in my essay. Modern Practical Cookery was an early cookbook publication in Canada, but it had already been published in Scotland nearly 40 years earlier. It was the first Scottish cookbook published in Canada. Of course I wanted to pick a recipe from this book which was distinctly Scottish.

Before I started research for my essay, I had never heard of tablet (also called butter tablet or Swiss milk tablet). Its actually a traditional Scottish sweet, similar to sucre a la creme, something I ate when I was a child in Canada. The Oxford Companion to Food includes an entry on tablet:


"...a Scottish sweet made from sugar and milk or cream boiled to the soft ball stage (116C/240F), and then stirred vigorously to make it ‘grain’ or crystallize. It is poured into trays and allowed to set before being cut into smaller pieces or ‘tablets’. The texture of this confection resembles crisp fudge. It was known in the early 18th century when purchases of ‘tablet for the bairns’ were recorded in The Household Book of Lady Grisell Baillie (1692-1733), and Mrs. McLintock (1736) gave recipes for orange, rose, cinnamon, and ginger tablets in the earliest work on cookery published in Scotland."

I tried to find this reference in Lady Grisell's book, but all I could find was an offhand reference by the editor of a 1911 edition, edited by Robert Scott-Moncrieff: "Fruits and confections are frequently bought, and occasionally 'taiblet for the bairens.'" Scott-Moncrieff's version is highly edited and transcribed, so plenty is left out. I couldn't find any record of "taiblet" in the book. I suppose we'll have to take his word for it, as I am unable to get my hands on the original source.

Unfortunately, Mrs. McLintock's Receipts for Cookery and Pastry Work seems to be a rare book, so I was unable to examine it myself. However, Food Timeline includes an interesting blurb from Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets by Laura Mason:

"Recipes for tablets flavoured with orange, rose, cinnamon and ginger were published in Glasgow by Mrs. McLintock in 1736. These are simple candy recipes, made only with sugar, water and flavourings. This is her recipe: "Orange Tablets with the Grate: Grate the Oranges, take 2 lib. of sugar, and a mutchkin of water, then clarify it with the White of 2 Eggs, and set it on a slow Fire, and boil it till it be almost candyed, then put in the Grate of the Oranges, and take your white paper, rub it with fresh Butter, pour it on your Paper, and cut in little pieces." This is a candy similar to those from the previous century. The word tablet has medicinal overtones, as in the commonly accepted meaning of a small flat disc containing some drug or health-giving substance...In tablet now made in Scotland, both orange and ginger are still found amongst the flavourings, but milk has become essential to the definition."

As for the name, the Oxford English Dictionary suggests that it may have come from medicinal origins, which isn't uncommon for candy. This seems especially possible considering the common flavours of ginger, cinnamon, rose, and peppermint.

So what do we know about tablet? It dates back to at least the 1730s. The candy likely had medicinal origins. Popular flavours included ginger, cinnamon, peppermint, rose, and citrus. The earliest recipes were mostly sugar and water, and the dairy component came later. The texture should be hard and grainy, rather than smooth and soft like fudge.


Original Recipe:


GINGER TABLET.

Clarify the sugar, as directed for barley sugar
(p. 308,) and boil it down, but not so high as for
barley sugar ; to know when it is candy high, dip
the end of a spoon in cold water, then in the boil-
ing sugar, and when it hangs to the spoon, ropy,
take it off the fire ; to two pounds of sugar, have
half an ounce of the whitest ginger you can get,
pounded and sifted, put it in the sugar and stir 
it, rubbing it well, and breaking all the knots 
with the back of the spoon against the side of the
pan ; when done, have the marble slab rubbed
over with butter, pour it on it, and let it stand
till quite cold, then score it into dice for orna-
ment, but not too deep, cut it into square cakes,
and lay it by in boxes.

TO MAKE BARLEY SUGAR.

Take two pounds of lump sugar, break it in
small pieces, take a clean brass pan, put in a pint
(mutchkin) of water, drop in the white of an egg,
and whisk it well, put in the sugar, put it on the
fire, and, when melted, bring it to the boil ; as
soon as it boils, draw it to one side, to make it
boil on one side of the pan ; skim it till it be
perfectly clarified, then set on the fire, and boil
it down quick ; in the mean time have a marble
slab ready, rub it over with a piece of butter ; to
know when the sugar is at a proper height, dip
the end of a spoon in cold water, then into the 
boiling sugar, and quickly into the cold water,
if the sugar has gathered round the spoon, slip it
off, and if it be hard, and crimps in your teeth, it
is enough ; take it off, and drop six or eight drops
of the essence of lemon into it, pour it on the
marble slab, and before it gets too cold, with a
pair of large scissors, cut it into long sticks, rol
them on the slab, and lay them to cool ; this do
as quickly as possible, as it will get too cold for
cutting ; when done, keep it in a box, or in some
place from the air, and it will keep a long time.



The Verdict:

Well, the Oxford English Dictionary may be on to something when it says tablet may have had medicinal origins, because this is like medicinal strength ginger. Wow! It's very strong - but delicious! I like it, but I can only eat a small bite at a time. Mr. Man loves ginger and he really loves this. It is very sweet as well, though.

One thing - I wish I had made the tablet a bit thinner, because it was quite the feat to cut through it. Its a very hard candy, although it dissolves in the mouth. It has a rough and grainy texture, very unlike the smoothness of fudge.

It takes a bit of time to make with all that boiling, but overall, simple and tasty. I may make this again with Little Y, as it strikes me as something simple enough that a kid could do a lot of the recipe.

As for clarifying the sugar with the egg white...its probably an optional step by now. I did it just for fun, but I'm not sure it accomplished much.

Note: I used unrefined brown cane sugar (or at least I think so...it looked like it anyway) to make this recipe. I think any kind works fine, since its measured by weight and boiled down. The most authentic way would be to use lump sugar  - I suppose if you have access you can buy it, or if you're really dedicated you could make your own, but its really just sugar wetted with water and formed to a cone.



Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Modern Practical Cookery)

1 pint water
1 egg white (optional)
2 pounds sugar
1/2 ounce ginger, powdered
butter for greasing

1. In a large pot, whisk together the water and egg white (if using). Add the sugar.
2. Cook over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Then bring it to a boil.
3. If you are clarifying with the egg white, as soon as it starts to boil, move the pot so that only half of it is on the burner. This will allow any scum to shift to the opposite side. Skim it off until there is nothing left to skim.
4. Simmer the candy until it reaches the correct temperature. Make sure to stir and scrape down the sides from time to time. It is ready when it reaches around 240-245F. You can test by dropping a bit onto a plate and seeing that it does not run, or when it reaches the consistency of soft putty when dropped in cold water.
5. When the candy is ready, add the ginger and mix well. Pour it onto a greased marble slab or into a greased pan. Smooth it with a spoon or spatula to the desired thickness.
6. Let the tablet cool completely. Score into dice for decoration and cut into squares.


Sources:

Baillie, Grizel, and Robert Scott-Moncrieff. The Household Book of Lady Grisell Baillie, 1692-1733. Edinburgh: Printed at the UP by T. and A. Constable for the Scottish History Society, 1911.

Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2014.

Mason, Laura. Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets. Devon: Prospect, 1998.

Olver, Lynne. "The Food Timeline: Tablet." The Food Timeline. Accessed 31 Jan. 2015. <http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodcandy.html#tablet>.

"Tablet (confectionery)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation. Accessed 31 Jan. 2015. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tablet_(confectionery)>.

Nelson Balls (1881) ★★★★



If you haven't already heard of The Foods of England Project, I really recommend exploring the website. Its a really informative site and its where I found today's recipe for Nelson Balls.

Apparently Nelson Balls may have been named after Admiral Horatio Nelson (1758-1805). Nelson was a British officer, recognized for his service during the Napoleonic Wars. He is known for his famous quote, "England expects that every man will do his duty." I'm not sure what this has to do with lemon-flavoured confections, but I suppose its a nice enough legacy for a war hero.

Amusingly, the recipe on The Foods of England Project page came from a book published in the United States. There wasn't much other information, other than the earliest known reference to Nelson Balls was in an 1803 advertisement: "E Russell, Bread and Biscuit-baker ... the greatest variety of biscuits, Nelson's balls, Dutchess of York's biscuits..." So I decided to do a little internet digging. I did a search through Google Books and found a plethora of references to Nelson Balls. Several sources offered definitions of the food:
Salopia Antiqua (London, 1841)
Dictionary of Archaic and Provincial Words (London, 1855)
The English Dialect Dictionary (1905)

I also found an interesting article about Nelson Balls:
So it appears that the treat was known under several names: Nelson Balls, Nelson's Balls, Waterloo Balls, and Nelson's Bullets. In one case, it appears that some schoolboys decided to refer to the confection as "horseballs." Nelson balls also seem to be a critical ingredient in the recipe for Nelson Puddings:

While there was a huge selection of recipes available for Nelson Pudding, I could only find one other for Nelson Balls:

Massey and Son's Biscuit, Ice, & Compote Book (London, 1866)
By the way, if you're interested in what a biscuit break is, Ivan Day has a great post all about that.


Original Recipe:

NELSON BALLS  3 lbs flour ½ lb butter ½ lb sifted sugar Essence of lemon to flavor.   Mix up very stiff with milk; place in a cloth for a half hour; break smooth with a biscuit break; mould into small balls about the size of a walnut; bake in a rather quick oven, and put in a warm place to dry.

The Verdict:

This recipe looked huge, so I decided to third the amount of ingredients. In the end I got maybe 30 or slightly less balls out of the thirded recipe. There wasn't really a described method, so I ended up mixing the ingredients in order. I put the flour and sugar in a bowl and mixed in the butter with my fingers. Then I added the milk and lemon extract, working it to a stiff dough with my hands. I let it sit for longer than half an hour because I got distracted. I beat the dough with my rolling pin for a while, until it looked nice and smooth. I wasn't sure about "size of a walnut," but since the recipes for Nelson Puddings called for 6 balls or small cakes, I made them about golf ball size. I baked them for about 15 minutes at 380F.

These aren't bad. The are not very sweet at all and I could have used more lemon flavouring (even though the dough smelled strongly, it wasn't enough after they were cooked). Some fresh lemon zest would have been great, actually. Mr. Man loved them (he doesn't like overly sweet things), but we both agreed these would be improved by some icing on top or even lemon curd in the middle, as they're a bit dry and dense. I can really see how making them into a pudding would be a great improvement. They're definitely edible as is, though!

Modernized Recipe*:

(Adapted from The complete bread, cake and cracker baker)

455g FLOUR
76g SUGAR
76g BUTTER
LEMON EXTRACT
MILK

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Add the butter and combine with your fingers until crumbly.
2. Add in a little milk at a time, mixing until you get a stiff dough. Add the lemon extract to taste. On a flat surface, knead and beat the dough with a rolling pin until it is smooth.
3. Cover the dough with a cloth or plastic wrap and let sit for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 380F.
4. After the dough has rested, roll into balls about the size of a golf ball. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the tops just start to turn light brown. They don't rise or spread much at all, so they can sit close together on the baking sheet.


*Thirded recipe

Chocolate Tarts (1829) ★★★★

I felt like the 1820s were being left out, so here's a recipe to fill in that time gap!


Original Recipe:



The Verdict:

Different, but not bad!
The flavour is a bit different from what we normally pair with chocolate today. Lemon and cinnamon is not what my tongue prefers, but I got used to it as I tasted and after finishing one tart, I think I could definitely eat another.
I had an issue with the chocolate filling not setting thickly, as I think it probably should have. That was probably because I didn't cook it enough and/or it needed more eggs. I like to round way down with eggs in historical recipes because I really hate eggy taste.
I used these pre-made puff pastry shells because I was feeling lazy (and Mr. Man picked those up instead of the tart shells haha), but I think puff paste tart shells would have worked way better.
Oh! I should add that I didn't add the diced lemon peel...I forgot about that and only had one lemon. I'm also not sure if the recipe meant fresh lemon peel (since its already in the recipe) or candied lemon peel. I imagine this can't have made much different flavour-wise, as there was already lemon in the filling.
Overall, this is a lovely recipe and although it may be a bit of an acquired taste, its good!

Edit: After sitting out for a while they did get firmer, and after being in the fridge the tarts became quite firm.


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Modern Domestic Cookery, and Useful Receipt Book)

1/4 pound (4 ounces) CHOCOLATE, chopped
1/2 teaspoon CINNAMON
Zest of 1 LEMON
3 tablespoons SUGAR
2 teaspoons FLOUR
3+ EGGS, separated (see above about number of eggs)
1 tablespoon MILK
LEMON PEEL, diced fine
PUFF PASTRY SHELLS

1. In a saucepan whisk together the flour, egg yolks, and milk. To this add the chocolate, cinnamon, lemon zest, and sugar. Whisk together well and cook over medium heat until thick.
2. Add finely diced lemon peel to the cooked filling and let it stand until cold.
3. Meanwhile, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Preheat oven to 350F.
4. Fill puff pastry shells with chocolate filling and cover with the beaten egg whites. Sift some sugar over the top. Bake for five minutes at 350F, then broil until egg whites are golden on top.


Blueberry-Cake (1870) ★★★




While I was searching around for blueberry cake recipes, I came across some short story about a pet fly named John. Completely unrelated, but amusing nonetheless!
Anyway, this cake is probably a little out of season, but for some reason I have a TON of blueberries in my freezer, so of course the natural solution is cake!

Original Recipe:


The Verdict:

This cake turned out very dense; like a bread. I also undercooked it, which was because I piled all the batter into one 9" cake pan and it was way too much. Silly mistake. I tried some of the cooked outside, and it wasn't bad. It was very plain, though. Overall, it was an easy recipe. I would eat it by choice as is, but it could definitely do with some improvements. I give it 3 stars.


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapated from A Helping Hand for Town and Country: An American Home Book of Practical and Scientific Information)

1 cup SUGAR
3 EGGS
1/2 cup BUTTER, melted
1 cup MILK
1/2 teaspoon CREAM OF TARTAR
1 teaspoon BAKING SODA
4 cups FLOUR
BLUEBERRIES, lightly coated in flour
Optional: vanilla extract, cinnamon, lemon zest, orange zest, etc.

1. Preheat oven to 350F and grease and flour two 9" cake pans or a 9x13 pan.
2. In a large mixing bowl, beat together the sugar and the eggs. Add the melted butter and milk. Add any optional flavouring at this time.
3. Separately, mix together the cream of tartar, baking soda, and flour. Stir into the batter. Add the blueberries last and gently fold in.
4. Bake for about 20 minutes (just an estimate, check doneness with a toothpick). My suggestion is to serve with frosting between layers and/or on top.

Lemon Biscuits (1861) ★★★★


Its funny, when I pick a recipe to make for this blog, I usually go by ingredients. Flour? Sugar? Butter? Eggs? Lemon? "This will be easy," I think to myself. And then I start the recipe. And read the instructions. And I end up thinking, "what the heck is going on here?!"

This recipe is weird. Why does it call for blending the butter with the flour, like a pastry? And after adding the eggs it looked so dry and crumbly, I was getting really worried. So I did a brief Google search and saw that some other people have tried this recipe without success....oh no.
But then I went back to my bowl and it had basically magically transformed into something that resembled a dough! Yay! I kneaded it a bit, dropped it onto a cookie sheet, put it in the oven, and crossed my fingers.

 


Original Recipe:

LEMON BISCUITS.
1743—INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Mode.—Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakes will spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake the cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Seasonable at any time.

The Verdict:

Now, seeing as though we're looking at a British cookbook here, "biscuits" really means cookies. But there's no kind of leavening in the recipe at all. Mrs. Beeton states to drop the dough with a spoon, so I got some pretty lumpy cookies. Almost like coconut macaroons in look. They also didn't spread very much at all, despite what her recipe says.

These lemon biscuits are really quite beautiful. They bake up a very light color, and look like fluffy clouds. Taste-wise, they are just as delicate. The lemon flavour is light, but still present. I think I would personally prefer a touch more punch of lemon flavour, because the strongest flavour is just the sweetness from the sugar. Nevertheless, I would happily eat these cookies by choice, because they are good. I loved them best just out of them oven, when they're warm and soft and fluffy. Once they cool they become a bit dryer and denser.

Also! This makes a LOT of cookies! I got about 47 cookies. I would recommend halving the recipe, but I'm including the whole recipe below. Lastly, Mrs. Beeton's recipe calls for one ounce of "very finely-minced lemon-peel." I just assumed she meant lemon zest, but even zesting two lemons didn't weigh anything on my scale. I'm thinking she might have been referring to more of a candied peel. However, the lemon zest I used seemed to work just fine. And zesting requires no mincing!


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from The Book of Household Management)

1 1/2 pounds  (20 ounces) FLOUR
6 ounces UNSALTED BUTTER
3/4 pound (12 ounces) SUGAR
4 EGGS, beaten
1 ounce LEMON PEEL, or the ZEST of two LEMONS
2 teaspoons LEMON JUICE

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.
2. Rub the butter into the flour as if to make a pastry dough. It should resemble wet sand.
3. Add the sugar and lemon peel to the flour and mix well. Add the beaten eggs and lemon juice and stir together until it forms a sticky dough (I used my hands to make sure everything was completely incorporated - you don't want chunks of egg). If the dough is still crumbly and isn't coming together, let it sit for a bit, to absorb the eggs.
4. Drop the dough by teaspoons onto the prepared cookie sheet. Bake for about 10-15 minutes (mine took 13).


Bichof (1867) ★★★★★


A quick search for "bichof" turned up a definition in a French dictionary, translated as "a maceration of orange or lemon in wine." Another definition expands upon the first, specifying the inclusion of spices and use of either white or red wine. Also spelled Bishop, bishof, bichof, or bischof. Some form of bichof appears in several European countries, including France, the United Kingdom, and the Netherlands. What defines bichof from other mulled wines is the use of citrus.
Because it is a form of mulled wine, bichof is perfect to serve around Christmastime, and indeed this has been a traditional use for the recipe for some time.In fact, a similar version of this recipe, known as Smoking Bishop, appeared in the end of Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol. This sort of wine with spices and citrus had many variations, and was often simply called "Bishop." Here is a recipe from Modern Cookery (1845) by Eliza Acton:

Eliza directly quoted this recipe from Apician Morsels; or, Tales of the Table, Kitchen, and Larder (1829):
According to Mrs. Beeton, port and claret were most often used for mulled wine, so this recipe calling for white wine is a bit of an odd one out. She also specifies no particular ingredients, but gives a ratio of 1 cup of water (with dissolved sugar and spices) per pint of wine. 

Original Recipe:



The Verdict:

Because I'm impatient, I used the second method. I used 26 ounces of sparkling white grape juice, since I don't like alcohol. I figured it was a similar enough substitution. I also halved the amount of sugar and water. The end result was really tasty! It was very sweet, though, which I figured it would be. The sugar is really unnecessary with grape juice. With wine it might be different. It really did only take a few minutes to make, too. I would make this again, and I'll give this recipe five stars. Oh, and I only tried this cold, but I think it would be delicious warm as well. I may try that later.


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Hand-book of Practical Cookery, for Ladies and Professional Cooks)

26 ounces WHITE WINE or SPARKLING WHITE GRAPE JUICE
1/2 pound SUGAR*
1/2 pint WATER*
A pinch of CINNAMON
Juice of 1 LEMON
Juice of 1 ORANGE

* Omit if using juice.

1. Mix all together very well and serve hot or cold.

Brownie's Food (1899) ★★★



I'm really excited about sharing today's recipe, because it comes from a very interesting little cook book. The Machias Cook Book was published in 1899 and was compiled by a Mrs. Willis H. Allen and "presented to" the Ladies' Social Circle (of Machias, I think we can assume). Machias is a little town in Maine which has the distinction of being the location of the first naval battle in the American Revolution.

The Narrative of the Town of Machias includes a section on the Allen family, but I couldn't find any reference to a Willis H. Allen, which is odd. I found some great information about him on Find a Grave, which tells me that by 1880, at 23 years old, he was a grocer. Willis was married to Clara Frances from 1855 until 1893, and her grave stone references Willis as a deacon. On October 24, 1894, Willis married Hattie F. Pennell, who became the Mrs. Willis H. Allen, compiler of the Machias Cook Book. I couldn't find anything on a "Ladies' Social Circle", but I did find mention of a "Ladies' Working Society", which was connected with the local Methodist church and a "Ladies working Circle" at the Universalist church. Interestingly, an E.V. Allen was pastor in 1904 at the Methodist church, but otherwise no mention of Willis or any Deacon Allen.

As for the submitter of today's recipe, I think found some information on her as well. Marie Kelly is particularly interesting because she was living in Whitewater, Wisconsin, a considerable distance from Machias, Maine. Two other Kellys from Whitewater also submitted to the cook book - Olive V. Kelly and Mrs. H. M. Kelly.
Here is what I have deduced from analyzing census data:
In 1870, Hannah M. and possibly husband John were living in Wisconsin (I say possibly, because another source lists a William Kelly as her son David's father. John might be an uncle, or perhaps the second source was mistaken. However, I believe I've also found John's grave, which lists his death as 1876, explaining why he would be absent in later censuses. The grave is fairly far from Whitewater, but the names and dates match.). Hannah was born in New Brunswick, while John came from Maine - there is the connection to Machias. At this time they had six children: Maine, John, Hannah, Olive, David, and Thomas. An 1895 census lists an H M Kelly living in Whitewater, with three females and two males in the household. This could be a match for the Kelly family, as several of the children died, along with Hannah's husband. We also know that five years later, in 1900, the census lists only five people in the household. This included Hannah the elder, Hannah (her daughter), Olive, David, and "Maron." At first I thought that Maron was one of Hannah's children, but I think she was actually her daughter-in-law. The 1910 census shows David and Marion - spelled correctly this time - married to each other and living on their own. I think that Marion is a good match for the Marie Kelly from the cookbook, because it seems like a plausible nickname and we know that Olive and Hannah both contributed as well. However, I could be completely off base here - Marie might be a relative of the family or a completely different person and a highly remarkable coincidence.

It seems that Hannah's maiden name was also Kelly, according to Find a Grave. A very detailed obituary provides some more insight into the family's life and connection to Machias. Hannah's father was David Longfellow Kelly. Longfellow was one of the earliest families to populate Machias, and the Narrative of the Town of Machias contains a very long and confusing account of their genealogy. Furthermore, one of Hannah's grandchildren was named Pennell C. Kelly - an interesting choice for a first name. I wonder if there was some connection between Hannah and Hattie Pennell, the compiler of the cookbook. Using last names as first names was a common practice in this time period, as a way for women to sort of pass on their maiden names and pay homage to their family heritage.

It seems that both Hannah and her daughter-in-law, Marion, were quite socially active in a variety of groups, especially religious ones. It wouldn't be surprising, then, that they would chose to contribute to a community cookbook.

Also, it should be noted that the Kellys were not the only out of town contributors. There are also recipes from Minnesota, Massachussets, California, Washington D.C., Iowa, Vermont, and other towns in Maine.


The reason why this particular recipe is so exciting is that it is possibly the earliest printed recipe for brownies (as the chocolaty confections we know today)! Credit goes to Rachel Moran for discovering the recipe. See the timeline below to get an idea of the evolution of brownies. If you're looking for more in-depth research, I highly suggest New England Recipes: History of Brownies or The Story Behind the Dish.

1893 - Palmer House Brownie invented, but original recipe does not appear to have been written down (includes extra chocolate, walnuts and apricot glaze)
1896 - "Brownies" published in the Boston Cooking School Cook Book (no chocolate, uses molasses, 1 egg, and nuts, directions to bake like small fancy cakes)
1897 - "Brownies, in 1-lb papers" for sale in Sears-Roebuck Catalogue, under "Fancy Crackers, Discuits, Etc." [sic]
1898 - "Chocolate Brownies" for sale in an ad for confections in the Kansas City Journal
1899 - "Brownie's Food" published in the Machias Cook Book (2-part recipe, no eggs, no nuts, bake in layers, frosting)
1901 - "Chocolate Brownies" for sale as Easter candy in an ad in The Minneapolis Journal
1903 - "Chocolate Brownies" for sale as Christmas candy in an ad in The Washington Times
1904 - "Brownies" recipe published in Home Cookery (eggs, nuts, vanilla, directions to "cut into bars")
         - "Bangor Brownies" recipe published in Service Club Cook Book (eggs, walnuts, directions to "spread on baking tins")
1905 - "Brownies" recipe published in Home Cook Book, Practical Recipes by Expert Cooks (uses eggs, lemon zest, directions to "roll out and cut in brownie or other shapes")
         - "Bangor Brownies" recipe published in the Boston Daily Globe (eggs, walnuts, directions to "spread thin in buttered pans" and "cut before cold")
1907 - "Bangor Brownies" recipe published in Lowney's Cook Book (eggs, nuts, directions to "cut in strips")
         - "Lowney's Brownies" recipe published in Lowney's Cook Book (eggs, nuts, directions to "cut into squares")
1910 - "Brownies" recipe published  in the Boston Cooking School Cook Book (eggs, walnuts, vanilla, directions to "cut into strips")

As you can see, the 1899 recipe is quite different from all the rest, as it calls for layers, frosting, does not include nuts or eggs, and altogether seems to be more of a cake recipe than a bar.

Original Recipe:


The Verdict:

I dunno...I was kind of disappointed by these, I guess. I tasted the batter and it was really yummy, but after baking it was like all that yummy chocolateness just evaporated. Plus it baked up really badly...yeah, I can only portray this visually:


I also totally and completely under baked these. But it didn't really matter anyway, since the batter exploded. It was also extremely sweet, which I would consider unusual for historical desserts. The brownies themselves were fairly sweet and then on top of that the icing was essentially pure sugar. It was just too much.

I'm not sure if this is just a fail recipe or if I did something wrong. But the taste was so "meh", I'm not sure I care to try again. I guess I'll give three stars, because if fully cooked and if icing is used extremely frugally, it is okay enough that I don't feel I'd be uncomfortable if forced to eat it.

But is this a brownie recipe? I think I'd be comfortable saying yes. It had the same kind of dense, chewy texture of a brownie, even though it didn't turn out right. The layering and frosting is a bit odd, but the texture seemed right to me. And most importantly, it actually contained chocolate!


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Machias Cook Book)

1 1/2 cup BROWN SUGAR
1/2 cup MILK
3/4 cup GRATED CHOCOLATE

1/2 cup BUTTER
1 cup BROWN SUGAR
1/2 cup MILK
2 cups FLOUR
1 teaspoon BAKING SODA
1 teaspoon VANILLA

1/2 cup CREAM
1 pound POWDERED SUGAR

1. In a medium saucepan, melt the brown sugar, milk, and grated chocolate. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar and chocolate. Let cool.
2. In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter and sugar. Add the milk, flour, and baking soda. Mix in the cooled chocolate mixture.
3. Bake in layers at 350F until a toothpick comes out clean (maybe 30-40 minutes?). Beat together the cream and powdered sugar to make the frosting.


Cranberry Tea (1850) ★★★★


What I love about this recipe is that it is so indicative of place and time. Cranberries are indigenous to North America, and were originally used by Aboriginals as food, medicine, and dye. When settlers from Europe arrived, they too began to utilize cranberries. There are very early references to using cranberries in recipes for sauces, jellies, and tarts.

The inclusion of this recipe in an American cookbook indicates that settlers were recognizing and utilizing native foods in their cooking. Additionally, According to Catharine Parr Strickland Traill, "necessity, no doubt, has taught the old settlers, both in the States and Canada, to adopt certain leaves, roots and berries, as a substitute for the genuine article; and habit has reconciled them to the flavour."

Today we commonly associate cranberries with the holiday season, a tradition which began long ago. It is possible that cranberries were eaten by early English settlers in Massachussets and were used in Thanksgiving feasts. In 1853, Canadian author Traill, wrote of using cranberries as a festive decoration.

Original Recipe:



The Verdict: 

Actually, this turned out better than I thought! Firstly, the cranberries were like impossible to mash. Those things are tough! I think some sort of pestle-like object would work better than my wirey potato masher. Secondly, I was really worried that just pouring hot water over the somewhat mashed berries wouldn't extract very much flavour. But it did! And my water wasn't even as hot as it could be, so I'm really pleased with that. I let it steep for a while (while I finished up the Doctor Who 50th anniversary special! Whee!), maybe 20 minutes? As you can see, the end result was a gorgeous color. I sweetened my tea with honey and added a little nutmeg, but to be honest I liked it better without the nutmeg. Little Y saw it and asked to try some "Jell-O juice" (hahaha) so I let her have a sip and she really liked it! Cranberry isn't my favourite, because its so sour, but I might make this again. Plus if you can employ child labour to mash the berries, its definitely worth the time ;)



Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Miss Beecher's Domestic Receipt Book)

The original recipe is easy to follow. Steep the mashed berries in the hot water until it turns a vibrant red-pink color. I think I used maybe 1/2 cup berries to 1 1/2 cups water, roughly.


Sources:


"Cranberry." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 21 Nov. 2013. Accessed 24 Nov. 2013. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranberry>.

Traill, Catharine Parr Strickland. The Female Emigrant’s Guide, And Hints on Canadian Housekeeping. Toronto, Canada West: Maclear and Company, 1855.

Chocolate Caramels (1877) ★★★★


I haven't done a candy recipe here in a while, and I've been thinking about making caramels recently, so I thought this recipe for Chocolate Caramels would be a good pick.

I found this recipe in The Home Cook Book, which is Canada's first community cookbook. That is, it was written and published as part of a fundraising initiative for the Hospital for Sick Children in Toronto. Like many community cookbooks (which were already being published south of the border since at least 1864), this one listed the names of contributors with some recipes, another new concept for Canada (although, to be fair, Catharine Parr Strickland Traill credited some other women for the recipes in her famous Female Emigrant's Guide, published 1854). I also noted the distinct instruction to use Baker's chocolate. I love seeing something like this, which serves as evidence of how ingrained in our society some brands really are. Its amazing that I can still find Baker's chocolate in the store today, and its even more amazing that Baker's chocolate has maintained its place on pantry shelves. In fact, Baker's is probably one of the oldest brand names in North America, dating back to 1764!

Now, this recipe calls specifically for New Orleans molasses, which the internet tells me is "a molasses that is comparatively light in color and rich in sugar." If you search for images, Brer Rabbit brand shows up quite a lot, so that seems to be the main brand. I had regular molasses already in my cupboard and I don't even know where I'd get New Orleans molasses, so sorry to authenticity, but I used regular instead.


Original Recipe:



CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.
     One cup of fine granulated sugar, one cup of New 
Orleans molasses, one-fourth cup of milk, a piece of 
butter the size of an egg, one cup of chocolate after it is 
cut up, if made single quantity; if doubled, it is as well 
not to put the chocolate in till about done, and then the 
same quantity of the recipe will suffice, as it retains the 
flavour if not cooked as much. Boil till it will stiffen in 
water; pout into flat buttered pans to the thickness of 
half an inch. Use Baker's chocolate.

The Verdict:

I was a bit worried about these for two reasons: firstly, the mixture is so dark that you can't see if you've burned it and secondly, the molasses I used seemed very strong. Even when I was tasting it while it was cooking it seems very strong. So I was pretty surprised when I tasted these and they were really good and quite chocolately! I think they really mellowed out when they cooled, especially after I put them in the fridge. I had to put my candy in the fridge because I just slightly undercooked it, so they were still very soft even after hours on the counter. The texture was amazingly smooth and silky; these just melt in your mouth. The caramels are a little rich, though. I give this recipe four stars.
Yield: 63 caramels


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from The Home Cook Book)

1 cup SUGAR
1 cup NEW ORLEANS MOLASSES
1/4 cup MILK
1/4 cup BUTTER
1 cup BAKER'S CHOCOLATE, chopped

1. Butter a cookie sheet that has a rim . Mix all ingredients into a large pot. Simmer it until the mixture reaches firm ball stage, 245 - 250F.
2. Pour the candy onto the buttered cookie sheet to 1/2 inch thickness. Do not scrape the pot. Let cool overnight and then cut into pieces.


Sources:


"Baker's Chocolate (brand)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 15 Aug. 2013. Web. 18 Aug. 2013. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker's_Chocolate_(brand)>.

Bower, Anne. Recipes for Reading: Community Cookbooks, Stories, Histories. Amherst: University of Massachusetts, 1997. Print.

Driver, Elizabeth. Culinary Landmarks: A Bibliography of Canadian Cookbooks, 1825-1949. Toronto: University of Toronto, 2008. Print.

Cider Cake (1840) ★★★★

Last semester I was working on a website project for school, which I named Early Canadian Cookbooks Online. I'm actually still working on it, but I hope to have it completed eventually! Anyway, I had planned to make this cake for a blog post on the website. Unfortunately things didn't go as planned...




Original Recipe:

11. Cider Cake.
Take two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, one pint of cider, cloves and cinnamon, with or without fruit, two teaspoonsful of saleratus; put the saleratus in the cider, and mix it while foaming.
N.B. - As a general rule, every thing mixed with saleratus should be put in the oven immediately.


The Verdict:           
Well, as you can see by the pictures, I kind of undercooked this cake. Um, a lot. And the worst bit of it is that this is actually a really delicious cake! The taste is very similar to the Dutch breakfast cake called ontbijtkoek. Also, this recipe only has 5 ingredients (not counting spices)! And no eggs! I'm pretty impressed, actually. The texture is was nice and fluffy, with a hard-ish crust. I think what I would do next time is divide the dough in half and make two cakes, rather than trying to shove it all into one pan. Or maybe use a bundt pan. That might be big enough. I was really alarmed at the amount of sugar in this recipe, but it actually doesn't taste that sweet. Mr. Man and I both enjoyed this cake (we ate the cooked part).






Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Frugal Housewife's Manual)

1/2 lb. butter, softened
1 lb. sugar
2 lbs. flour
Cloves, to taste (I used 1 teaspoon)
Cinnamon, to taste (I used 2 teaspoons)
2 cups apple cider
2 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour two 9 inch cakes pans or a large bundt pan.
2. In a very large bowl, beat together the butter and the sugar until combined and fluffy. Add in the flour and the spices. The mixture will be crumbly like a pastry dough. Using your hands to mix is beneficial.
3. Add the baking soda to the apple cider and mix it into the dough. Make sure it is well combined, but be gentle and get the dough into the oven quickly.
4. Bake for about 35 - 40 minutes for one large cake or 15 - 20 for each small cake.


Roll Jelly Cake (1893) ★★★★★

When I lived in Japan in 2008 roll cake was one of my favourite desserts. My first host mother, Mama, once brought home a chocolate roll cake with whipped cream filling because she knew how much I enjoyed it. I had never tried the deliciousness that is roll cake before I arrived in Japan.
This recipe from 1893 is quite different from that Japanese roll cake, and not just because it is from an American cookbook. The flavour and texture are completely different. But that doesn't mean its bad, it just means its different.




Original Recipe: 
Roll Jelly Cake.


From MRS. FLORA BEALL GINTY, of Wisconsin, Seventh Vice-President Board of Lady Managers.
Five eggs, two cupfuls of sugar, two of flour, one-half cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda; bake in square tins, spread with jelly and roll while warm. Lemon jelly is very nice. This recipe makes four rolls.

Flora Beall Ginty


The Verdict:
I was kind of worried about this cake but it actually turned out really good! Mr. Man practically devoured all of it on his own!
I have only tried to make a roll cake once before, and it didn't turn out well. So I looked for modern instructions online and found this guide. I mixed and baked my cake, dividing the batter among 4 9x9 pans. When the cakes started pulling away from the sides of the pan and it was spongy and springy to the touch, I removed them from the oven. I wanted to try two techniques - the modern guide and just rolling up the cake immediately as the original instructions indicated. I had some trouble with the second technique, but that was probably because I overcooked that cake. I think both work okay, since this kind of filling isn't really impacted by heat. I could see the benefit from rolling and cooling the cake for whipped cream, for example.
Anyway, I used lemon filling, which I bought in a jar at the store. While it was okay, I think that using homemade lemon curd would have made this seriously amazing. The cake was alright on its own, although a little bland. But it's okay because the filling really provides enough flavour on its own (or should, anyway). I think one strong flavour is enough.
Also, while making 4 small rolls is definitely good if you wanted to make 4 different flavours, for example, its possible that this could be made in 2 9x13 pans instead.
Overall, this dessert is definitely worth five stars!




Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from Favorite Dishes)

4 LARGE EGGS
2 cups SUGAR
2 cups FLOUR
1/2 cup MILK
2 teaspoons CREAM OF TARTAR
1 teaspoon BAKING SODA
FILLING (jam, curd, etc.)
POWDERED SUGAR

1. Preheat oven to 350F and grease and flour 4 9x9 pans.
2. In a large mixing bowl, mix together the eggs and sugar. Add the flour, milk, cream of tartar, and baking soda. Mix well and divide equally among the prepared pans.
3. Bake the cakes for 10-15 minutes, or until the edges are lightly browned and pull away from the sides and the top is springy and spongy to the touch.
4. Immediately remove the cakes from the pans to a work surface which is lightly coated with powdered sugar. Spread the filling on the cakes and roll them up. Let them cool before serving.


Rhubarb Pudding (1887) ★★

In North America, rhubarb is a sign of spring. I was a little late this year, but I always anticipate being able to buy it from the grocery store (one day I will have my own plant!). In America, rhubarb was so often used as a pie filling that it actually became known as "pie plant." This recipe is not for a pie, but it represents the use of rhubarb as a popular food and ingredient in desserts.



Original Recipe:
RHUBARB OR PIE-PLANT PUDDING.
Chop rhubarb pretty fine, put in a pudding dish and sprinkle sugar over it; make a batter of one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of soda and enough flour to make batter about as thick as for cake. Spread it over the rhubarb and bake till done. Turn out on a platter upside down, so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with sugar and cream.


The Verdict:
Unfortunately this pudding wasn't very good. The cake was so bland and flavourless and it didn't even have sugar, so it didn't even taste sweet. The juices from the rhubarb also made the top a bit soggy. That said, with some modifications, this could be a good dessert. The cake needs sugar directly in it and perhaps some flavouring with a little vanilla or some spices. Lightly coating the rhubarb in some cornstarch might also help with the soggy top issue.


Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Whitehouse Cookbook)

RHUBARB, chopped fine
SUGAR
CORNSTARCH
1 cup BUTTERMILK
2 EGGS
1/4 cup BUTTER, softened
1/2 teaspoon BAKING SODA
FLOUR
VANILLA or SPICES
CREAM

1. Mix together the rhubarb, a bit of cornstarch, and sugar to taste. Arrange in the bottom of a greased pan. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and eggs. Add the butter. Add the baking soda and enough flour to make a cake-like batter (I used about 4 handfuls). Add vanilla or spices as desired. Whisk until well-combined and pour over the rhubarb.
3. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the edges start to pull away and a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool in the pan and then invert onto a plate. Serve topped with sugar and cream.


Raspberry Tart (1831) ★★★★

Hi everyone!
I've been super busy with school lately, as I'm taking a 120% course load this semester! Crazy, right?!
The good news is that I am done mid-April, so hopefully then I can give this blog a little more attention.
(The bad news is that I have about 3 essays due before then that I haven't even started yet! Shhh!)

Anyway, for one of my courses I've been designing a website, called Early Canadian Cookbooks Online. It's basically an online bibliography for Canadian cookbooks, 1825 - 1875. I've also got links up so that people can read the digitized copies online. As part of the project, I decided it would be a great idea to set up a blog with a similar premise to this one. So as an example post, I made a raspberry tart from the 1831 cookbook, The Cook Not Mad. You can check it out over at ECCO!
(As a side note, if you visit my website, please note that it is still under construction in a lot of places!)

(Click this delicious looking tart to see the post!)