Showing posts with label 1880s. Show all posts

Nelson Balls (1881) ★★★★



If you haven't already heard of The Foods of England Project, I really recommend exploring the website. Its a really informative site and its where I found today's recipe for Nelson Balls.

Apparently Nelson Balls may have been named after Admiral Horatio Nelson (1758-1805). Nelson was a British officer, recognized for his service during the Napoleonic Wars. He is known for his famous quote, "England expects that every man will do his duty." I'm not sure what this has to do with lemon-flavoured confections, but I suppose its a nice enough legacy for a war hero.

Amusingly, the recipe on The Foods of England Project page came from a book published in the United States. There wasn't much other information, other than the earliest known reference to Nelson Balls was in an 1803 advertisement: "E Russell, Bread and Biscuit-baker ... the greatest variety of biscuits, Nelson's balls, Dutchess of York's biscuits..." So I decided to do a little internet digging. I did a search through Google Books and found a plethora of references to Nelson Balls. Several sources offered definitions of the food:
Salopia Antiqua (London, 1841)
Dictionary of Archaic and Provincial Words (London, 1855)
The English Dialect Dictionary (1905)

I also found an interesting article about Nelson Balls:
So it appears that the treat was known under several names: Nelson Balls, Nelson's Balls, Waterloo Balls, and Nelson's Bullets. In one case, it appears that some schoolboys decided to refer to the confection as "horseballs." Nelson balls also seem to be a critical ingredient in the recipe for Nelson Puddings:

While there was a huge selection of recipes available for Nelson Pudding, I could only find one other for Nelson Balls:

Massey and Son's Biscuit, Ice, & Compote Book (London, 1866)
By the way, if you're interested in what a biscuit break is, Ivan Day has a great post all about that.


Original Recipe:

NELSON BALLS  3 lbs flour ½ lb butter ½ lb sifted sugar Essence of lemon to flavor.   Mix up very stiff with milk; place in a cloth for a half hour; break smooth with a biscuit break; mould into small balls about the size of a walnut; bake in a rather quick oven, and put in a warm place to dry.

The Verdict:

This recipe looked huge, so I decided to third the amount of ingredients. In the end I got maybe 30 or slightly less balls out of the thirded recipe. There wasn't really a described method, so I ended up mixing the ingredients in order. I put the flour and sugar in a bowl and mixed in the butter with my fingers. Then I added the milk and lemon extract, working it to a stiff dough with my hands. I let it sit for longer than half an hour because I got distracted. I beat the dough with my rolling pin for a while, until it looked nice and smooth. I wasn't sure about "size of a walnut," but since the recipes for Nelson Puddings called for 6 balls or small cakes, I made them about golf ball size. I baked them for about 15 minutes at 380F.

These aren't bad. The are not very sweet at all and I could have used more lemon flavouring (even though the dough smelled strongly, it wasn't enough after they were cooked). Some fresh lemon zest would have been great, actually. Mr. Man loved them (he doesn't like overly sweet things), but we both agreed these would be improved by some icing on top or even lemon curd in the middle, as they're a bit dry and dense. I can really see how making them into a pudding would be a great improvement. They're definitely edible as is, though!

Modernized Recipe*:

(Adapted from The complete bread, cake and cracker baker)

455g FLOUR
76g SUGAR
76g BUTTER
LEMON EXTRACT
MILK

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Add the butter and combine with your fingers until crumbly.
2. Add in a little milk at a time, mixing until you get a stiff dough. Add the lemon extract to taste. On a flat surface, knead and beat the dough with a rolling pin until it is smooth.
3. Cover the dough with a cloth or plastic wrap and let sit for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 380F.
4. After the dough has rested, roll into balls about the size of a golf ball. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the tops just start to turn light brown. They don't rise or spread much at all, so they can sit close together on the baking sheet.


*Thirded recipe

Rhubarb Pudding (1887) ★★

In North America, rhubarb is a sign of spring. I was a little late this year, but I always anticipate being able to buy it from the grocery store (one day I will have my own plant!). In America, rhubarb was so often used as a pie filling that it actually became known as "pie plant." This recipe is not for a pie, but it represents the use of rhubarb as a popular food and ingredient in desserts.



Original Recipe:
RHUBARB OR PIE-PLANT PUDDING.
Chop rhubarb pretty fine, put in a pudding dish and sprinkle sugar over it; make a batter of one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of soda and enough flour to make batter about as thick as for cake. Spread it over the rhubarb and bake till done. Turn out on a platter upside down, so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with sugar and cream.


The Verdict:
Unfortunately this pudding wasn't very good. The cake was so bland and flavourless and it didn't even have sugar, so it didn't even taste sweet. The juices from the rhubarb also made the top a bit soggy. That said, with some modifications, this could be a good dessert. The cake needs sugar directly in it and perhaps some flavouring with a little vanilla or some spices. Lightly coating the rhubarb in some cornstarch might also help with the soggy top issue.


Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Whitehouse Cookbook)

RHUBARB, chopped fine
SUGAR
CORNSTARCH
1 cup BUTTERMILK
2 EGGS
1/4 cup BUTTER, softened
1/2 teaspoon BAKING SODA
FLOUR
VANILLA or SPICES
CREAM

1. Mix together the rhubarb, a bit of cornstarch, and sugar to taste. Arrange in the bottom of a greased pan. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and eggs. Add the butter. Add the baking soda and enough flour to make a cake-like batter (I used about 4 handfuls). Add vanilla or spices as desired. Whisk until well-combined and pour over the rhubarb.
3. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the edges start to pull away and a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool in the pan and then invert onto a plate. Serve topped with sugar and cream.


New Year's Day Menu (1887) ★★★★★


Ending my 4 Weeks of Yuletide is a menu for New Year's Day, which comes from The Whitehouse Cookbook. Since this cookbook comes from the President's kitchen, this was probably a pretty elite menu for the time period. Even today, this is a lot of food, and is fairly carb-heavy - I mean, hominy, potatoes, rolls, doughnuts, AND toast all at breakfast?!
As much as I would love to make this entire menu (haha - not - can you imagine one person making all this food?!) I decided to pick a selection of the breakfast recipes.

Original Recipe:


NEW YEAR'S DAY.

BREAKFAST.

Baked Apples 515.
Hominy 274.
Boiled White Fish 59.
Ham Omelet 233.
Potatoes á la Crême 193.
Parker House Rolls 253.
Crullers 317.
Toast 276.
Coffee 458.

SUPPER.
Cold Roast Turkey 82.
Boston Oyster Pie 76.
Celery Salad 174.
Baked Sweet Potatoes 198.
Rusks 256.
Fruit Cake 290.
Sliced Oranges.
Tea 460.

DINNER.
Oysters on Half Shell.
Julienne Soup 33.
Baked Pickerel 51.
Roast Turkey 82, Oyster Stuffing 83.
Mashed Potatoes 192.
Boiled Onions 198.
Baked Winter Squash 212.
Cranberry Sauce 163.
Chicken Pie 89.
Plain Celery 175.
Lobster Salad 171.
Olives.
Spiced Currants 189.
English Plum Pudding 396, Wine Sauce 417.
Mince Pie 338.
Orange-water Ice 380.
Fancy Cakes 310.
Cheese.
Fruits.
Nuts.
Raisins.
Confectionery.
Coffee 458.

BAKED APPLES.
Get nice fruit, a little tart and juicy, but not sour; clean them nicely, and bake in a moderate oven—regulated so as to have them done in about an hour; when the skin cracks and the pulp breaks through in every direction they are done and ready to take out. Serve with white sugar sprinkled over them.

HAM OMELET.
Cut raw ham into dice, fry with butter and when cooked enough, turn the beaten egg over it and cook as a plain omelet.
If boiled ham is used, mince it and mix with the egg after they are beaten. Bacon may be used instead of raw ham.

POTATOES Á LA CRÊME.
Heat a cupful of milk; stir in a heaping tablespoonful of butter cut up in as much flour. Stir until smooth and thick; pepper and salt, and add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes, sliced, and a little very finely chopped parsley. Shake over the fire until the potatoes are hot all through, and pour into a deep dish.

The Verdict:

The baked apple was perfectly cooked, and really delicious. It probably didn't even need the sugar because the baking really brought out the sweetness. I think cinnamon would have made it even better, but it really was quite tasty as it was. A super simple recipe, too, and it made my kitchen smell incredible. I cut out the core from the center, because it seemed logical, even though the recipe didn't specifically mention to do so.
The omelet was, well, a bacon omelet. I used bacon because I had that on hand. Admittedly, I didn't follow the directions for making "a plain omelet", because it didn't occur to me to find that recipe until I had mixed up the eggs. Oops. Anyway, Mr. Man said it was "amazing."
Mr. Man and I liked the potatoes, although they were a bit plain. Some cheese on top or some garlic powder would have been nice, but they were certainly edible and I would eat them gladly.


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from The Whitehouse Cookbook)

Baked Apples
APPLES
WHITE SUGAR

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Scrub the skin of the apples well. Cut out the cores. Place in a baking dish and bake for about 1 hour, or until the skin splits and a toothpick easily pierces the fruit. Let cool slightly and serve sprinkled with sugar.

Ham Omelet
3 slices BACON or UNCOOKED HAM, diced
2 EGGS
1 tablespoon MILK
SALT
PEPPER

1. Dice the bacon or raw ham. Fry in a skillet, using butter if using ham. If using bacon, drain off most of the grease, leaving a little for cooking the egg in.
2. In a small bowl, use a fork to whisk together the eggs, milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the cooked meat and cook over medium heat until just firm.
3. Use a spatula around the edge of the pan to make sure the omelet isn't stuck and flip one side over the other. Carefully flip onto a plate. Makes 1 omelet.

Potatoes a la Creme
2 cups of boiled, sliced POTATOES
1 cup MILK
1 tablespoon BUTTER
1 tablespoon FLOUR
SALT
PEPPER
PARSLEY

1. In a skillet, heat the milk until boiling. Rub the butter into the flour until crumbly. When the milk is boiling, whisk the butter mixture into it. Add salt and pepper to taste.
2. Cook the sauce until thickened. Fold in the sliced potatoes and heat through. serve with parsley sprinkled on top.


Chocolate Eclairs (1887) ★★

Well, chocolate eclairs wouldn't be the first food I think of when I think of what to eat at Thanksgiving, but apparently they were appropriate during the 1880s at least! Perhaps this was due to the relative novelty of the dish - it seems that the first English recipe for eclairs was just published in 1884. But - what more American source than the Whitehouse Cookbook to validate their appearance on a Thanksgiving menu!

Eclairs are listed under "Supper," which would be lunch to us modern folk. For the curious, here's the menu in full:
Breakfast: grapes, oat flakes, broiled porterhouse steak, codfish balls, browned potatoes, buckwheat cakes, wheat bread, coffee
Supper: cold roast turkey, scalloped oysters, potato salad, cream short-cake, eclairs, preserved egg plums, tea
Dinner: oysters on half shell, cream of chicken soup,  fried smelts, sauce tartare, roast turkey, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, baked squash, boiled onions, parsnip fritters, olives, chicken salad, venison pastry, pumpkin pie, mince pie, charlotte russe, almond ice-cream, lemon jelly, hickory nut cake, cheese, fruits, coffee

Overall, the dinner menu looks quite similar to something we'd see today, although perhaps a little...more elaborate. The only thing I think is missing is sweet potatoes, and of course there are a few oddities (fried smelts, boiled onions), but overall the link to modern Thanksgiving is obvious.

Happy Thanksgiving, from 1887!


Original Recipe:

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS.
Make the mixture exactly like the recipe for "Boston Cream Cakes." Spread it on buttered pans in oblong pieces about four inches long and one and a half wide, to be laid about two inches apart; they must be baked in a rather quick oven about twenty-five minutes. As soon as baked ice with chocolate icing, and when this is cold split them on one side and fill with the same cream as "Boston Cream Cakes."
BOSTON CREAM CAKES.
Put into a large-sized saucepan half a cup of butter and one cup of hot water; set it on the fire; when the mixture begins to boil, turn in a pint of sifted flour at once, beat and work it well with a vegetable masher until it is very smooth. Remove from the fire, and when cool enough add five eggs that have been well beaten, first the yolks and then the whites, also half a teaspoonful of soda and a teaspoonful of salt. Drop on buttered tins in large spoonfuls about two inches apart. Bake in a quick oven about fifteen minutes. When done and quite cold, open them on the side with a knife or scissors and put in as much of the custard as possible.
Cream for Filling.—Made of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sifted flour (or half cup of cornstarch) and one cup of sugar. Put two-thirds of a pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler; in a third of a pint of milk, stir the sugar, flour and beaten eggs. As soon as the milk looks like boiling, pour in the mixture and stir briskly for three minutes, until it thickens; then remove from the fire and add a teaspoonful of butter; when cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon and fill your cakes.

PLAIN CHOCOLATE ICING.
Put into a shallow pan four tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate, and place it where it will melt gradually, but not scorch; when melted, stir in three tablespoonfuls of milk or cream and one of water; mix all well together, and add one scant teacupful of sugar; boil about five minutes, and while hot, and when the cakes are nearly cold, spread some evenly over the surface of one of the cakes; put a second one on top, alternating the mixture and cakes; then cover top and sides, and set in a warm oven to harden. All who have tried recipe after recipe, vainly hoping to find one where the chocolate sticks to the cake and not to the fingers, will appreciate the above. In making those most palatable of cakes, "Chocolate Eclairs," the recipe just given will be found very satisfactory.


The Verdict:
I was super excited when these were baking, but alas, my dreams were crushed. Firstly, I undercooked the pastry. I've never made eclairs before, so I didn't realize until it was too late. Because of that they fell, were gooey instead of crisp, and tasted eggy. The chocolate icing was tasty, but grainy from using regular sugar. The filling was edible, but not my favourite flavour. It was basically identical to the blancmange I made a little while ago. I would've much preferred whipped cream. They are edible, but I won't eat them, unfortunately. I think if I didn't make as many mistakes the pastry could've been good, but personally I just don't like the filling, so the whole recipe is pretty much moot.
Oh, and they are ugly, aren't they? The filling was running out, but possibly just because I didn't let it cool completely. Little Y saw the photos and said, "Ewwwww, gross!" Haha!

Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Whitehouse Cookbook)

Eclairs
1/2 cup UNSALTED BUTTER
1 cup HOT WATER
1 pint (2 cups) FLOUR, sifted
4 EGGS, separated
1/2 teaspoon BAKING SODA
Pinch of SALT

Chocolate Icing
4 tablespoons BAKING CHOCOLATE, finely chopped or grated
3 tablespoons MILK
1 tablespoon WATER
1 cup SUGAR

Filling
1 pint (2 cups) MILK
1 cup SUGAR
3 tablespoons FLOUR
2 EGGS, beaten
1 teaspoon BUTTER
VANILLA or LEMON EXTRACT

1. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and hot water. When it starts to boil, remove from heat and add in the flour. Mix well until a smooth dough forms (a potato masher may be useful). Let cool.
2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Meanwhile, separate the eggs into two bowls. Beat the whites until stiff peaks form and then beat the yolks until frothy.
3. When the dough is cool, beat in the yolks and fold in the whites, baking soda, and salt.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and put the finished dough into a ziploc bag (or pastry bag). Cut off one corner of the bag to be about 1.5 inches wide. Use the bag to squeeze out 4-inch tubes of dough, keeping them about 2-inches apart. If needed, use your fingers dipped in water to smooth out the tops and edges. Bake for 20 - 25 minutes.
5. While the eclairs are baking, make the chocolate icing. In a small saucepan, add the chopped chocolate. Put it on top of the stove or somewhere warm to gradually melt. When melted, stir in the milk and water. Add the sugar and boil it all together for about 5 minutes. When the eclairs are baked and nearly cold, ice them.
6. To make the filling, put two-thirds of the milk in a double boiler. In a separate bowl, mix the other third of milk, sugar, flour, and eggs. Just before the milk boils, stir in the mixture and whisk for three minutes or until thickened. Add the butter and flavouring, stir, and let cool. When the eclairs are cool as well, split them open  on one side and fill.


Refreshing Drink (1885) ★★

This seems like an economical drink, as the cooked rice mush could probably be used as porridge or in a pudding (I've seen some recipes that use cooked rice).


Original Recipe:


The Verdict:
Well I guess this is basically rice milk, isn't it? I'm not a huge fan of rice milk (or cow's milk for that matter), but for some reason I thought this would have only a faint rice flavour. Little Y did like it though, but she's had rice milk for over a year now and likes it. After 45 minutes of boiling, I decided to take it off the stove, but even then the rice had soaked up way too much of the water. I ended up having to add a little water to the strained rice water, because it was thick like tapioca pudding or something. For flavouring, I added a bit of honey and vanilla. Overall, I wouldn't make this again, but for those who like rice milk, this could be a nice treat.

Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Kingswood Cookery Book, found in Possum Pie, Beetroot Beer And Lamingtons: Australian Family Recipes 1868-1950)

The original recipe is easy to follow.


Grape-Pudding (1886) ★★

I had some grapes in the fridge...you see where this is going...

Original Recipe:

The Verdict:
Well, Mr.Man thought it was too sweet, and I thought it was too sour. Oddly, the cooked grapes lost a lot of their sweetness. Some issues here which led to the low rating were that the pudding was mushy and fell apart and the top layer of crumbs was dry and nearly burnt. I think it needed some butter or something to help the top cook as well. However, I didn't mind the overall taste when I ignored the texture. But this recipe was a mess...literally.


Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from Miss Corson's Practical American Cookery)

BUTTER
GRAPES
SUGAR
BREADCRUMBS
POWDERED SUGAR

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease an 8x8 baking dish with butter.
2. Fill the baking dish with alternate layers of grapes, sugar, and bread crumbs, ending with a top layer of crumbs.
3. Bake for about 30 minutes. Serve it hot with powdered sugar.


Baked Tenderloins and Baked Sweet Potatoes (1886) ★★★★★

This cookbook included the recipes for a whole meal here - tenderloin, sweet potatoes, and sausage-stuffed apples. I decided not to make the stuffed apples, because I don't like apples with savory food, but I know lots of other people do, so the recipe for those can be found by clicking on the cookbook link and then clicking to the next page.


Original Recipe:

The Verdict:
It was good! I was worried that I might have wasted an expensive chunk of meat, but this turned out really lovely. The potatoes were delicious as well, and I'm kind of iffy with sweet potatoes, so that's saying a lot. They took on the pork drippings and were very flavourful. The only thing is that they were well done after 40 minutes, while the pork took about 80, so by the end we had mashed potatoes really. Which was okay, but next time I think I would remove the potatoes after 40 minutes to keep them intact. I think I will actually save this recipe and make it again, because it was really simple with great taste.

Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from Miss Corson's Practical American Cookery)

1 PORK LOIN*
1 large SWEET POTATO, cut in chunks
2 teaspoons DRIED POWDERED SAGE
1 teaspoon SALT
1 teaspoon PEPPER
1 tablespoon OIL

1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Use a baking dish or a cast iron skillet and coat the bottom with a little bit of oil. Add in the cut sweet potato. Place the loin on top of the potatoes. Brown in the oven for about 10 - 12 minutes.
2. Remove the dish from the oven and lower the temperature to 425F. In a small bowl, mix together the sage, salt, and pepper. Rub it all over both sides of the meat and sprinkle some on the potatoes, making sure to coat them evenly (perhaps temporarily removing the pork to a plate would make this easier). When you return the pork to the dish, turn it upside-down so that the underside gets browned as well.
3. Return the dish to the oven and bake for 40 minutes. If you want potato chunks, remove them after the first 40 minutes and bake the loin another 40 minutes. If you want more of a mashed-style potato, leave them in.

* I used a large pork loin, but you could also you other pork loin/tenderloin cuts (or even pork chops). In that case, the baking time should probably be reduced. I imagine that the originally given 40 minutes would work well with smaller cuts of meat.


Rhubarb Toast (c.1886) ★★★★

One of the reasons I love spring is because rhubarb is in season (let's ignore that the first day of summer is in a week)! 

Original Recipe:


The Verdict:
The original recipe seemed like it was meant to feed a small army or something, so I quartered it. I still ended up with over a cup of sauce. The sauce is very tart, so if you like your rhubarb on the sweeter side, I suggest adding more sugar to taste. I didn't mind it, but it was rich so I barely made it through the two slices. It was good though; basically like a rhubarb jam. I actually poured some over a slice of cake and I enjoyed it a lot that way. So yay! Multipurpose sauce!

Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from The Woman Suffrage Cook Book)

1/2 cup WATER
1/8 cup SUGAR
1/2 pound RHUBARB, diced
WHOLE WHEAT BREAD or GRAHAM BREAD

1. In a small saucepan, heat the water and sugar to boiling. Add the rhubarb and cook until the rhubarb is soft and falls apart, about 5 minutes or so. Let cool.
2. Toast bread and butter it. Serve with cooled rhubarb poured over it.


Chocolate Cake (1889) ★★


Here is a simple recipe for chocolate cake from the cook book "Aunt Babette's" Cook Book. Foreign and Domestic Receipts for the Household. A valuable collection of receipts and hints for the housewife, many of which are not to be found elsewhere., printed in 1889. This recipe is gluten free (imagine that!) and is relatively straight forward. I had to look up "slow oven" and I found that it means the temperature of the oven should be between 250 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Of course ovens in the Victorian period were mostly run by fire, so precise temperatures were not as easily attainble as they are today. I set my oven to 275 degrees and it worked well.

CHOCOLATE CAKE
(No. 2.) Beat the yelks of twelve eggs with half a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound of grated sweet almonds, half a pound of finely-grated vanilla chocolate, and one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon. Add the stiff-beaten whites last, and bake one hour in a slow oven. Bake in a spring form lined with greased paper.




The Verdict:
This cake was really spongy as a result of having so many eggs in it. Consequently it also had a bit of an eggy taste to it. It wasn't really awful; definitely edible. It had a strange texture. My boyfriend said it reminded him of banana bread. I wonder how this cake would be if I had used small eggs (I have a feeling Victorian eggs were not so super-sized). I would eat this if I had to, but I probably wouldn't make it again.

Modernized Recipe:
(Adapted from "Aunt Babette's" Cook Book)

12 EGGS
1/2 pound SUGAR
1/2 pound grated ALMONDS
1/2 pound grated BAKING CHOCOLATE
1 tablespoon ground CINNAMON

1. Preheat your oven to 275 degrees. Line a 9x13 pan with greased parchment paper.
2. If you need to grate/chop your chocolate, do so first. Also divide your egg yolks and whites into two separate bowls.
3. Mix together the egg yolks, sugar, almonds, chocolate, and cinnamon.
4. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold into the cake batter.
5. Bake for 1 hour.