Nelson Balls (1881) ★★★★



If you haven't already heard of The Foods of England Project, I really recommend exploring the website. Its a really informative site and its where I found today's recipe for Nelson Balls.

Apparently Nelson Balls may have been named after Admiral Horatio Nelson (1758-1805). Nelson was a British officer, recognized for his service during the Napoleonic Wars. He is known for his famous quote, "England expects that every man will do his duty." I'm not sure what this has to do with lemon-flavoured confections, but I suppose its a nice enough legacy for a war hero.

Amusingly, the recipe on The Foods of England Project page came from a book published in the United States. There wasn't much other information, other than the earliest known reference to Nelson Balls was in an 1803 advertisement: "E Russell, Bread and Biscuit-baker ... the greatest variety of biscuits, Nelson's balls, Dutchess of York's biscuits..." So I decided to do a little internet digging. I did a search through Google Books and found a plethora of references to Nelson Balls. Several sources offered definitions of the food:
Salopia Antiqua (London, 1841)
Dictionary of Archaic and Provincial Words (London, 1855)
The English Dialect Dictionary (1905)

I also found an interesting article about Nelson Balls:
So it appears that the treat was known under several names: Nelson Balls, Nelson's Balls, Waterloo Balls, and Nelson's Bullets. In one case, it appears that some schoolboys decided to refer to the confection as "horseballs." Nelson balls also seem to be a critical ingredient in the recipe for Nelson Puddings:

While there was a huge selection of recipes available for Nelson Pudding, I could only find one other for Nelson Balls:

Massey and Son's Biscuit, Ice, & Compote Book (London, 1866)
By the way, if you're interested in what a biscuit break is, Ivan Day has a great post all about that.


Original Recipe:

NELSON BALLS  3 lbs flour ½ lb butter ½ lb sifted sugar Essence of lemon to flavor.   Mix up very stiff with milk; place in a cloth for a half hour; break smooth with a biscuit break; mould into small balls about the size of a walnut; bake in a rather quick oven, and put in a warm place to dry.

The Verdict:

This recipe looked huge, so I decided to third the amount of ingredients. In the end I got maybe 30 or slightly less balls out of the thirded recipe. There wasn't really a described method, so I ended up mixing the ingredients in order. I put the flour and sugar in a bowl and mixed in the butter with my fingers. Then I added the milk and lemon extract, working it to a stiff dough with my hands. I let it sit for longer than half an hour because I got distracted. I beat the dough with my rolling pin for a while, until it looked nice and smooth. I wasn't sure about "size of a walnut," but since the recipes for Nelson Puddings called for 6 balls or small cakes, I made them about golf ball size. I baked them for about 15 minutes at 380F.

These aren't bad. The are not very sweet at all and I could have used more lemon flavouring (even though the dough smelled strongly, it wasn't enough after they were cooked). Some fresh lemon zest would have been great, actually. Mr. Man loved them (he doesn't like overly sweet things), but we both agreed these would be improved by some icing on top or even lemon curd in the middle, as they're a bit dry and dense. I can really see how making them into a pudding would be a great improvement. They're definitely edible as is, though!

Modernized Recipe*:

(Adapted from The complete bread, cake and cracker baker)

455g FLOUR
76g SUGAR
76g BUTTER
LEMON EXTRACT
MILK

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour and sugar. Add the butter and combine with your fingers until crumbly.
2. Add in a little milk at a time, mixing until you get a stiff dough. Add the lemon extract to taste. On a flat surface, knead and beat the dough with a rolling pin until it is smooth.
3. Cover the dough with a cloth or plastic wrap and let sit for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 380F.
4. After the dough has rested, roll into balls about the size of a golf ball. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the tops just start to turn light brown. They don't rise or spread much at all, so they can sit close together on the baking sheet.


*Thirded recipe

Victoria Day Food History


1854 Celebration of Queen Victoria's birthday on the grounds of the second Government House of Upper Canada, Toronto.

For Canadians, Victoria Day (or May 24 [pronounced two-four, also slang for a case of 24 beers]) is an important celebration which generally marks the unofficial beginning of summer. Victoria Day occurs on the Monday before May 25th and forms the third day of a long weekend. So although we refer to it as May 24, Victoria Day can actually fall on any date between the 18th and 24th of May. This year we celebrate on the 19th.

However, as the name might suggest, in the beginning Victoria Day wasn't exactly meant to signify the beginning of summer. May 24, 1819 happens to be the birthday of Queen Victoria. Celebrations of the Queen's birthday had occurred in Canada since before it was actually a country. These celebrations were usually on the actual date of May 24th. In 1845 (22 years before Confederation) the parliament of the Province of Canada passed legislation which officially recognized the date of the Queen's birthday as a holiday. By the 1890s Victoria Day had turned into quite the festive occasion, complete with ringing church bells, marching bands, parades, picnics, fireworks, gun salutes, athletic competitions, and bonfires.

Following Victoria's death in 1901, the birthday of her son, Edward VII, was also celebrated on May 24th, despite his being born in November. The next sovereign, George V, had his birthday officially celebrated on June 3rd, which was indeed his real birth date. Though he only ruled for a year, Edward VIII had his birthday celebrated once on the actual date, June 23rd. The next monarch, George VI, officially celebrated his birthday in June as well, despite being born in December. For her first birthday as Queen, Elizabeth II continued the tradition of celebrating her birthday in June, although she was born in April. Meanwhile, Canadians had continued to celebrate Victoria Day in May. Canadians had maintained a fondness for the "Mother of Confederation," who had overseen the rule of Canada as it came to maturity as its own nation. Perhaps this is why, in the second year of her reign (1953), Queen Victoria's birthday was, by proclamation, to be celebrated on Victoria Day. Although Queen Elizabeth II's birthday is still celebrated in June in the United Kingdom, in 1957 Canada officially and permanently appointed Victoria Day as Elizabeth II's birthday as well. To make matters more confusing, in 1898, Empire Day was first celebrated in Canada on the school day before May 24th, thus building upon the celebrations of Victoria Day to glorify Canada's ties to the British Empire. In 1952, Empire Day was moved to the Monday before May 24th, and the year after, Victoria Day was moved to the same date, thus merging the two holidays. However, in 1958 Empire Day was renamed Commonwealth Day and in 1977 it was once again moved, this time to the second Monday in March. This left Victoria Day/Elizabeth II's birthday on the Monday before May 24th, as the statutory holiday we celebrate today.

The Lewiston Daily Sun - May 3, 1901

Today Victoria Day contains many of the same activities - mainly picnics, parades, and fireworks - as well as some more modern additions. The long weekend is when Canadians can open up their dusty cottages after the winter, start gardening, go camping, boating, or maybe even risk a swim (though the water may be quite chilly). The beverage of choice is two-fours of ice cold beer and barbecues will be fired up once again. Many people take advantage of the time off to party. Some people may even still recite the old rhyme, "The Twenty-Fourth of May is the Queen’s Birthday. If we don’t get a holiday, we’ll all run away!"

So what, then, do Canadians eat on Victoria Day? I tried to answer this question, and here's what I found from newspaper advertisements (mostly from grocers advertising foods for the holiday) and a few cookbooks:
  • "families would char hotdogs or burn hamburgers over an open fire. It was fishing time, too, with sleek pickerel...smelt...and suckers..." Gadsden Times - May 13, 1975
  • Creole Wieners and Oriental Spice Cake with Mocha Icing. Ottawa Citizen - May 17, 1956
  • Sliced cold turkey. Ottawa Citizen - May 18, 1967
  • Potted meats, potted fish, potted game, lunch tongue, boneless chicken, boneless turkey, chipped beef, pate de fois, truffled birds, cottage loaf, ham loaf, beef loaf, fruit wines and ciders, fruit syrups, lime juice. Ottawa Citizen - May 22, 1901
  • Oranges, olives, dates, prunes, butter scotch, Welch's grape juice. The Montreal Gazette - May 21, 1912
  • Sandwiches, salads. The Montreal Gazette - May 23, 1941
  • Domestic ducks, roasting chickens, squabs, broilers, brome lake ducklings. The Montreal Gazette - May 23, 1941
  • Roast ham, boiled ham, corned beef, pressed ham, jellied tongue, jellied veal, jellied hock, english brawn, pickles. Ottawa Citizen - May 22, 1913
  • Asparagus soup, roast lamb, minted peas and carrots, rissole potatoes, relish tray, chutney, rhubarb custard pie. Chatelaine's Adventures in Cooking, 1969
  • Devilled eggs, pan-fried minted brook trout, cheese herb bread with sweet butter, spring salad, Fullarton May cakes with fudge icing, classic butter tarts, chilled dry white wine, cold lager beer. Classic Canadian Cooking, 1974

Sources:

"Commonwealth Day." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 05 Nov. 2014. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commonwealth_Day>.

Toffoli, Garry. "The Queen’s Birthday in Canada." Canadian Royal Heritage Trust. N.p., 2013. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://crht.ca/the-queens-birthday-in-canada/>.

"Victoria Day." Canadian Heritage. Government of Canada, 2013. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://www.pch.gc.ca/eng/1359139714709/1359139936142>.

"Victoria Day." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 05 Nov. 2014. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Day>.

"Victoria Day in Canada." Time and Date. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/canada/victoria-day>.

"Victoria Day: Responsible Rule and Firecrackers." The Globe and Mail. N.p., 18 June 2012. Web. 14 May 2014. <http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-debate/editorials/victoria-day-responsible-rule-and-firecrackers/article4197794/>.

"Busy-Day" Lemon Cheesecake (1959) ★★



Today's recipe is actually sort of relevant, as I've been super busy lately! I have been meaning to post something but I just haven't been able to follow through - so sorry! I came across this recipe, which I had pinned a while back, and I thought it would be perfect. Seemed safe enough and also quick and easy.

So what am I so busy with? Well, for starters I finished my undergraduate degree! Which I started back in 2009, ha. I'm pretty proud of myself, though, to be honest. Although a bit nervous to be done school and having to actually start real real life now.

Chocolate Tarts (1829) ★★★★

I felt like the 1820s were being left out, so here's a recipe to fill in that time gap!


Original Recipe:



The Verdict:

Different, but not bad!
The flavour is a bit different from what we normally pair with chocolate today. Lemon and cinnamon is not what my tongue prefers, but I got used to it as I tasted and after finishing one tart, I think I could definitely eat another.
I had an issue with the chocolate filling not setting thickly, as I think it probably should have. That was probably because I didn't cook it enough and/or it needed more eggs. I like to round way down with eggs in historical recipes because I really hate eggy taste.
I used these pre-made puff pastry shells because I was feeling lazy (and Mr. Man picked those up instead of the tart shells haha), but I think puff paste tart shells would have worked way better.
Oh! I should add that I didn't add the diced lemon peel...I forgot about that and only had one lemon. I'm also not sure if the recipe meant fresh lemon peel (since its already in the recipe) or candied lemon peel. I imagine this can't have made much different flavour-wise, as there was already lemon in the filling.
Overall, this is a lovely recipe and although it may be a bit of an acquired taste, its good!

Edit: After sitting out for a while they did get firmer, and after being in the fridge the tarts became quite firm.


Modernized Recipe:

(Adapted from Modern Domestic Cookery, and Useful Receipt Book)

1/4 pound (4 ounces) CHOCOLATE, chopped
1/2 teaspoon CINNAMON
Zest of 1 LEMON
3 tablespoons SUGAR
2 teaspoons FLOUR
3+ EGGS, separated (see above about number of eggs)
1 tablespoon MILK
LEMON PEEL, diced fine
PUFF PASTRY SHELLS

1. In a saucepan whisk together the flour, egg yolks, and milk. To this add the chocolate, cinnamon, lemon zest, and sugar. Whisk together well and cook over medium heat until thick.
2. Add finely diced lemon peel to the cooked filling and let it stand until cold.
3. Meanwhile, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Preheat oven to 350F.
4. Fill puff pastry shells with chocolate filling and cover with the beaten egg whites. Sift some sugar over the top. Bake for five minutes at 350F, then broil until egg whites are golden on top.


St. Patrick's Day Party (c. 1931)

I love that The Settlement Cook Book includes holiday menus like this one for a Saint Patrick's Day party. Its rather rare to find menus like this in early cookbooks, especially for something other than Christmas. The theme here seems to be green + mint - not so different from a menu we might see today! There is also an emphasis on potatoes and shamrocks, two items which have continued to symbolize Irish heritage even today.